Medieval Clothing
shift to the body being something to be hidden rather than embraced
more woven fabric, more patterns and colors woven into fabric
Byzantine
wool and linen til the introduction of silk
very similar to later Roman styles (Domatic - wide sleeve tunic)
- much more conservative and concealing
Mantels (cape)
- replacing togas
- pludementum continued but more decorative
Byzantine Tunic a narrow long-sleeved garment that was worn to the ankle
Pallium - long, narrow, highly decorative scarf
cope - semi circular cape
Tablion - square detail at center front of cope
Dalmatica - tunic with wide sleeves
Chemise - under tunic with narrow sleeves
Stole - narrow cloak/mantle worn wrapped around the body (basically really narrow himation)
hosen - tighter fitting leggings (knit, or cut on bias and sew into tubes), precursor to tights, two separate tied to the waist with points, attached at feet sometimes shoes attached so all one unit
bracchae - breeches
points - ties that tie your hosen to your body
parti coloured - two different colored tights
Early Middle Ages (Early Gothic)
printing patterns on textiles
fabrics (muslim, silk damask)
dyeing of fabrics
linen and wool - primary textiles
cotton - considered luxury
preference for fur appeared, used in vests and
braies - loose fitting, diaper-like underwear - girdled at the waist
- hosen over braies
coif - tight fitting skull cap, many have ear flaps, ties under the chin, sometime work
Chainse - a type of under gown that was made of washable material, probably of cotton od linen
tonsile - shaved center of head, (monk hairstyle)
barbette- chin strap
gorget -barbette on steriods
crispine/chrispinette - hair net
fillet - becoming slightly larger
women - hair braided and up, often veiled especially in public
Journade - boxy garment, pleats on arms, heavier garment
Bayeax Tapestry
- story of William the Conqueror Battle of hastings
- introduction of chain mail
12th century radical change in the cuts of mens clothes, become more revealing
starts in decline of the ruling class
Late Gothic c. 1340 to 1500
- emphasis on both vertical lines and the arabesque serpentine curve found in architecture
- men’s short
Tabard - sleeveless garment, much like a sandwich board, shortened to the knees then to the crotch, open on sides
houppelande - large flamboyant robe with huge sleeves, pleated but not on sleeves, fur lined showing at the collar, belted at waist, sleeve edge was sometimes cut out in square or rounded scallops, a “dagged” edge
Chaperon - hooded shoulder mantle
cote - tunic
cote-hardie - over tunic, wider sleeves
Jerkin- waist length outer garment, usually of leather (became know as a doublet)
doublet - padded tunic worn under armor, laces down the front
pourpointe - under doublet with points for tiring hosen
mantel - large cape
sucrote - outer layer, with or without sleeves
cote - tunic
kirtle - under gown with round neck tight fitting sleeves floor or longer in lengths, fitted through the waist and wider through the skirt
bliaut - an elaborate closely fitted garment made of silk, satin or velvet closed on the sides with skirt and bodice sewn together
tippet - extra fullness of the sleeves at the waist
wimple fine white linen or silk scarf that covers the neck
poulaine - pointed shoe, made out of leather, cloth or metal
Headdress
henin - cone head hat
liripipe - extra long point on hat
double henin - butterfly hat
heart shape hat
Ecclesiastical left overs in to Catholic garments
stole
Dalmatic
Chausible - large oval cloak (poncho)
Alb - under tunic