Medieval Clothing

shift to the body being something to be hidden rather than embraced

more woven fabric, more patterns and colors woven into fabric

Byzantine

wool and linen til the introduction of silk

very similar to later Roman styles (Domatic - wide sleeve tunic)

- much more conservative and concealing

Mantels (cape)

- replacing togas

- pludementum continued but more decorative

Byzantine Tunic a narrow long-sleeved garment that was worn to the ankle

Pallium - long, narrow, highly decorative scarf

cope - semi circular cape

Tablion - square detail at center front of cope

Dalmatica - tunic with wide sleeves

Chemise - under tunic with narrow sleeves

Stole - narrow cloak/mantle worn wrapped around the body (basically really narrow himation)

hosen - tighter fitting leggings (knit, or cut on bias and sew into tubes), precursor to tights, two separate tied to the waist with points, attached at feet sometimes shoes attached so all one unit

bracchae - breeches

points - ties that tie your hosen to your body

parti coloured - two different colored tights

Early Middle Ages (Early Gothic)

printing patterns on textiles

fabrics (muslim, silk damask)

dyeing of fabrics

linen and wool - primary textiles

cotton - considered luxury

preference for fur appeared, used in vests and

braies - loose fitting, diaper-like underwear - girdled at the waist

- hosen over braies

coif - tight fitting skull cap, many have ear flaps, ties under the chin, sometime work

Chainse - a type of under gown that was made of washable material, probably of cotton od linen

tonsile - shaved center of head, (monk hairstyle)

barbette- chin strap

gorget -barbette on steriods

crispine/chrispinette - hair net

fillet - becoming slightly larger

women - hair braided and up, often veiled especially in public

Journade - boxy garment, pleats on arms, heavier garment

Bayeax Tapestry

- story of William the Conqueror Battle of hastings

- introduction of chain mail

12th century radical change in the cuts of mens clothes, become more revealing

starts in decline of the ruling class

Late Gothic c. 1340 to 1500

- emphasis on both vertical lines and the arabesque serpentine curve found in architecture

- men’s short

Tabard - sleeveless garment, much like a sandwich board, shortened to the knees then to the crotch, open on sides

houppelande - large flamboyant robe with huge sleeves, pleated but not on sleeves, fur lined showing at the collar, belted at waist, sleeve edge was sometimes cut out in square or rounded scallops, a “dagged” edge

Chaperon - hooded shoulder mantle

cote - tunic

cote-hardie - over tunic, wider sleeves

Jerkin- waist length outer garment, usually of leather (became know as a doublet)

doublet - padded tunic worn under armor, laces down the front

pourpointe - under doublet with points for tiring hosen

mantel - large cape

sucrote - outer layer, with or without sleeves

cote - tunic

kirtle - under gown with round neck tight fitting sleeves floor or longer in lengths, fitted through the waist and wider through the skirt

bliaut - an elaborate closely fitted garment made of silk, satin or velvet closed on the sides with skirt and bodice sewn together

tippet - extra fullness of the sleeves at the waist