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Clothing

- shift due to political shifts in France and America

- Ackermann’s Repository

     - english fashion publication 

     - included 

 

Proletarian Revolution (France 1792)

sans culottes (without breeches)

Incroyables and Les Merveilleuses adopted a wildly exaggerated look which flouted the social conventions of the time

     - clothing possibly stolen or scavenged

     - emotionally reactive to what was emotionally provocative

Chemise Dress - “Empire Waist”

Grecian Knot - hair style

stock - attached at the back

cravat - tied in the front 

 

Women’s Dress

1800-1810

fabric fullness shifting toward back toward the bustle

still corseted 

still fischu (modesty shawl)

not as elaborately decorated

hair has relaxed, mostly not wigs

shepherdess hat

silhouette flattens in front and waistline rises

lose corset for a little while

wigs gone, bonnets in with lots of fluffy and frilly ribbons

fabric white linen or cotton and more sheer

shawls draped around shoulders

Spencer - waist/bust length jacket (match the waistline of the dress)

Pelisse - overcoat often shaped like dress

Reticules/Indispensible - small purse that dangled from the wrist

Jockey cap - bonnet with wide brim to hide the face

Eilzabethan influence in puffed sleeves and fur lined trim

 

1810 <

structure and stiffness begins to come back in

begin to see Elizabethan influence

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Men’s Dress

1800-1820

- fabric becoming less decorated and elaborate

- fashion begins to change much more slowly

- “pink" coat

- 3 parts

     - coat

     - waist coat

     - breeches (later trousers)

- cutaway coat - snugly fit with little chance of buttoning at the front

- breeches begin to have a fall front

- George “Beau” Brummel

     - hung out with the English Prince Regent

     - dandy

     - biggest influence in men’s fashion at the time

- Tail coat

- fall-front pantaloons: full length trousers (tight fitting) with buttons on the side front flaps

- top hats replacing tricorn hats

- bicorn: Cavalier hat pulled up on two sides

- cravates 

- darker, more sever fabrics, often matching 

- breeches and trousers/pantaloons worn side-side for everyday wear

- breeches still worn for formal and court

- bobtail coat - similar to tailcoats but without tails, often cut at hips or waist

- swallowtail coat - tail coat with very narrow tail

- frock coat - “casual” coat, considered an appropriate for morning or sporting dress

     - often double breasted 

Bibliography

Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1967. Print.

Courtais, Georgine De. Women's Headdress and Hairstyles in England from AD 600 to the Present Day. London: B.T. Batsford, 1986.

Kangas-Preston, Karen. "Neoclassicism and Empire Clothing". Period Styles and Resources. Room 235, Auditorium. 8 October 2014.

Lester, Katherine Morris., and Bess Viola. Oerke. An Illustrated History of Those Frills and Furbelows of Fashion Which Have Come to Be

     Known As: Accessories of Dress. Peoria, IL: Manual Arts, 1940.

Stokstad, Marilyn. Art History. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2008. Print.

Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts, 1970.

Wilcox, R T. The Mode in Costume. New York: C. Scribner's Sons, 1958.

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