Clothing
- shift due to political shifts in France and America
- Ackermann’s Repository
- english fashion publication
- included
Proletarian Revolution (France 1792)
sans culottes (without breeches)
Incroyables and Les Merveilleuses adopted a wildly exaggerated look which flouted the social conventions of the time
- clothing possibly stolen or scavenged
- emotionally reactive to what was emotionally provocative
Chemise Dress - “Empire Waist”
Grecian Knot - hair style
stock - attached at the back
cravat - tied in the front
Women’s Dress
1800-1810
fabric fullness shifting toward back toward the bustle
still corseted
still fischu (modesty shawl)
not as elaborately decorated
hair has relaxed, mostly not wigs
shepherdess hat
silhouette flattens in front and waistline rises
lose corset for a little while
wigs gone, bonnets in with lots of fluffy and frilly ribbons
fabric white linen or cotton and more sheer
shawls draped around shoulders
Spencer - waist/bust length jacket (match the waistline of the dress)
Pelisse - overcoat often shaped like dress
Reticules/Indispensible - small purse that dangled from the wrist
Jockey cap - bonnet with wide brim to hide the face
Eilzabethan influence in puffed sleeves and fur lined trim
1810 <
structure and stiffness begins to come back in
begin to see Elizabethan influence
Men’s Dress
1800-1820
- fabric becoming less decorated and elaborate
- fashion begins to change much more slowly
- “pink" coat
- 3 parts
- coat
- waist coat
- breeches (later trousers)
- cutaway coat - snugly fit with little chance of buttoning at the front
- breeches begin to have a fall front
- George “Beau” Brummel
- hung out with the English Prince Regent
- dandy
- biggest influence in men’s fashion at the time
- Tail coat
- fall-front pantaloons: full length trousers (tight fitting) with buttons on the side front flaps
- top hats replacing tricorn hats
- bicorn: Cavalier hat pulled up on two sides
- cravates
- darker, more sever fabrics, often matching
- breeches and trousers/pantaloons worn side-side for everyday wear
- breeches still worn for formal and court
- bobtail coat - similar to tailcoats but without tails, often cut at hips or waist
- swallowtail coat - tail coat with very narrow tail
- frock coat - “casual” coat, considered an appropriate for morning or sporting dress
- often double breasted
Bibliography
Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1967. Print.
Courtais, Georgine De. Women's Headdress and Hairstyles in England from AD 600 to the Present Day. London: B.T. Batsford, 1986.
Kangas-Preston, Karen. "Neoclassicism and Empire Clothing". Period Styles and Resources. Room 235, Auditorium. 8 October 2014.
Lester, Katherine Morris., and Bess Viola. Oerke. An Illustrated History of Those Frills and Furbelows of Fashion Which Have Come to Be
Known As: Accessories of Dress. Peoria, IL: Manual Arts, 1940.
Stokstad, Marilyn. Art History. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2008. Print.
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts, 1970.
Wilcox, R T. The Mode in Costume. New York: C. Scribner's Sons, 1958.
1809 French cotton
1810-15 American cotton
1812 American silk
1815-18 British cotton
1815-18 British cotton
Boilly c. 1801
Boilly, 1792
Delafontaine 1798
Boilly c.1801