Realism Clothing

(Crinoline and Bustle Period)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Charles Worth 

     - first couture fashion designer

     - opens first fashion house (Paris)

Moral Act, establishes Land Grant Colleges (1861)

Ebenezer Butterick patients first sized, paper patterns (1863)

Harper’s Bazzar, fashion magazine (1867)

rise of factory system and production

     - allowing machinery to do the work

     - aesthetic comes from design not construction

 

Women's

- back to normal shoulders

decolletage - low neckline

bertha collar - cape-like collar that covers the shoulder area and made of white linen and/or lace

lingerie sleeves - detachable white cotton 1/2 sleeves

jacket bodices - constructed to mimic the idea of men’s suit jacket

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1860-1869 (Early Bustle)

- shift of fullness to back

- also shift of decoration to back

- emphasis on horizontal with a very layered look to the back

snood - decorative hairnet

zouave - short collarless jacket trimmed with braid

Garibaldi - blouses inspired by soldier uniforms, worn under zouave

bustle - pad, cushion or framework that sits under the skirts to expand, support and display the full cut and drape of the fabric of the skirt

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1870-1880 (Mid Bustle)

further pulling back and draping 

detail has shifted to the back

fishtail/mermaid style - starts lower, at knees; variation in the bustle style

basque bodice - fitted very sharply at torso and waist with peplum style below the waist 

princess seems - allows for nice fitted shape but still long pieces

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1880-1889 (Late Bustle)

bustle made 2 appearances

1. tight tubular shape

     - cuirass bodice - long tight fitted bodice ending in a point at the front and fitting smoothly at 

          the hips

     - dust ruffle - a ruffle attached to the underside of the skirt hem; common addition to protect 

          fabric

2. shaped bustle that sits high on the butt

     - shelf bustle

     - fabric cut to fit on the bustle

Dolman - half cape/half jacket; more structured in front and looser in the back

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hats and Hair

- continue to shrink

- hair pulled tight into buns sometimes with curls and/or braids

- hats smaller

 

shoes

- ankle of calf boots for everyday

 

Men’s

- coats limited to 2 styles

1. tailcoat or cutaway

2. frock coat

shirt studs used in place of buttons

collars separate

cravates shrink in size and are often tied to resemble bowties

Sack Jacket - loose, fairly unfitted; shaped just not to the waist

bowler hat - rounded crown, small brim

boater/skimmer - low crown straw hat

knickerbockers - trousers cut loosely through the legs and gathered or pleated to the knees

pants gain cuffs and creases

starting to see more matched coat vest and pants

Norfolk jacket - vertical pleat on princess seams front and back and belted at the waist

shift from cravat to bowtie

seeing more of the collar

collar sits high on the neck

ties begin to be worn with foreign knots

sideburns popular at the beginning the era 

sideburns transition to beards

formal wear gets a new coat the tuxedo jacket (really only semi-formal)

true formal wear that is only acceptable is tail coat

Tuxedo - black vest, black tie

tailcoat - white vest, white tie

seeing variations in day wear, evening wear and sporting wear