Clothing

 

clear trades with India for cotton

clear trade with China for silk

more consumer society

     - development of the middle class

 

Men’s Fashion

Early Century

exagerated silhouette 

coat buttons extended to the hem

buckram stiffening was used to hold out full skirts of coats

highly decorative

waistcoat fit close to the body and was charter than the coat made with out sleeves

breeches were worn narrower and closer to to the leg

shoes were still rounded 

main elements

     - drawers

     - shirt

     - waistcoat

     - coat    

     - breeches

Steinkirk: a style of wearing a cravat named after the 1692 battle where the solider supposedly twisted their cravats around their necks

moving away from the full-bottom wig, bag wig

Ditto Suit - coats did not necessarily match breeches or waistcoats, however, when they did it was called a ditto suit, all same fabric

     - birth of modern 3 piece suit

     - more

Frock coat - looser and shorter then dress coats and had a flat turned down collar

     - suitable for country wear 

     - plain and not embroidered

Daytime

     - woven wool for suits and coats

     - breeches sturdier

     - leather and buckskin for riding

Full Dress

     - gold, silver and silks, flowery and reflective

     - breachers lighter

Banyan

     - comfortable loosely fitted garment

     - also known as a morning gown or dressing grown

     - t-shaped or kimono like

     - derived from an indian gown

     - often worn with a cap (in place of a wig)

     - considered a state of undress

Macaroni or Dandy

     - coined to describe young men who affected fussy foreign dress and grooming

     - also called Fop or Elegants

     - name thought to have come from the Macaroni Club 

          - a club of young men back from the Grand Tour in Italy

     - wore exaggerations of current fashions

     - fashion for narrow breeches did stick

     - often wore stripped socks

 

Mid-Century

- fullness decreased

- side pleats eliminated

- waistcoats sleeveless, narrower and shorter

     - single and double breasted

- breacher closer fit and fall-front

- stocks

     - replaced cravats 

     - linen square, folded to form a high neck

     - post 1730

wigs

     - men who could afford them

     - full bottomed (perri)

     - post 1730s hair began to pull back toward bag wig

     - club wig - wig where the ponytail is doubled back on itself to form a club

     - queues - wig with a lock or pigtail at the back

     - French toupee/English Foretop

     - higher after 1750s and wider in 1780s

     - made from human hair, horse hair and goats hair

     - powdered with rice flour

     - colors varied for daytime, but powdered for evening

     - own hair cut short

Hats

     - wearing wigs made hats less important

     - became more of social etiquette

     - tricorn - 3 cornered hat

     - capeau bras - large wide brim often with feathers

     - bicorn - after 1780s

 

Late Century

- development of top hats

- shift to english country living style

     - more neutral tones, tans/greys/blacks

- garment seller

     - second-hand clothes could be purchase form markets and clothes sellers

     - black market for clothing

- made to measure

- men used tailors and women used dressmakers

- basic garments could be purchased in town

     - shirts and breeches

 

Women’s Fasion

Early Century

- fantange - bows 

- mantua - middle eastern influence robe that became belted and stitched

- softening of women’s dress

- patching - fabric or velvet patch attach to draw attention desired features or 

- Watteau back - a term that came to be attached to the loosely fitting back style

- after 1715

     - relaxed in woman’s dress

     - Robe Battante/Robe Volante/ Innocent/Sacque

          - over bell hoop

          - pleats in back and front

          - supposedly created by a kings mistress to hide pregnancy

          - bridge between mantua and robe de la francaise

     - simple hairstyles replaced elaborate fontange

     - hair was waved loosely around the face

- 1730

     - Robe a la française - pleated back but more synched at the waist then the loose square

     - robe a la anglaise - garment that fit the the garment both front and back

- fashion dolls allowed for more universal fashion

1710s - cone shaped

1720s - shape becomes more like a dome

1730s - the favored shape becomes narrower

Stays- corsets- made from coarse fabric unless they were intended to be seen, tied tom the back

paniers- cane hoops word on the hip translates “basket” both for shape but also to

appeal to , unboned bodice worn at home to provide relief from the corset

Clocks - shoe

elbow and shoulder considered improper and scandalous 

pinked - cut with zigzag shears

rooshed, gathering of fabric

mits - gloves that are fingerless

yellow - popular color from india

tippet - reminiscent of fur stole or boa

casaquin - jacket tightened through the bodice and a  flared below the waist

Caracao - jacket tightened through the bodice and a flare flared below the waists

shoes - pointed toes, high heels, tounges and side piece called latchets that fastened over the inset

     - red heel signified the upperclassed 

 

Madam de Pompadour

- wasn’t nobility, member of the bourgeoisie 

- very charismatic and style

- mistress of Louis XV

- took over part of running of Versailles 

     - in charge of flowers and gardening

- became one of his advisors

- would hold salons

- she was well-read, botanist, decorator

 

1740’s

- Paniers became incredibly wide

     - women had to enter sideways

- extremely heavy! lots of gold and silver

- tete de mouton - “Sheeps head” tight curls 

- wigs reached maximum height in the 1770s

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Late Century

1780s

- became more pastoral

- hedgehog wig - shot in front long in the back

- calaches/calashes - hood made of a series of semi hoops sewn into hood at intervals

     - hoops supported the hood that wouldn’t crush the hair

- skirts shortened

- polonaise - an over dress and petticoats in which they were pulled up over supports

- paniers staid as court dress

- bregere/shepherdess hat

- fischue - modesty shawl

- round or closed gown

- redingote - resembled english riding coat with wide lapels or refer at the neck

- bum roll - often made of cork

- fan movement/manners

 

Marie Antoinette

- Madeline Rose Bertin dressmaker to Maria

- hate court dress and politics

- like the shepherdess look

- chemise a la reine

     - white muslin gown that resembled chemise, still pinched in at the waist and had a bum roll

     - fabric imported from India