Clothing
- shift into much more conservative dress
- clothing that associated with an event
- designed for a purpose
- first sewing machines readily available for public purchase
- invented by Elais Howe
- could do the work of 10 individual stitchers
- not extensively used until after the Civil War
Womens Fashion
1820s&1830s
- shape and structure conflicted with idyllic art
- hour glass shape
- structured and frilly skirt
- lots of detail at the hem
- widening of the shoulders
- waistline at natural waste
- balanced figure
- skirts are gored - panels of fabric that create the shape (truncated triangles)
- leg of mutton sleeves - full to elbow then tightes to the wrist
- imbecile or idiot sleeves - full to wrist
- named for early straight jackets
- marie-sleeve - full to the wrist but tied at intervals
- horizontal lines
- giant hats and bonnets with flowers, fruit, feathers etc.
- bonnets have
- lower/unnaturally sloped shoulder
- exposed feet
- elongated foot (no definition of left/right)
- ballet-slipper-esque
- corsets reintroduced
- sometimes have butt/pillow pad to add small bump to back
- women carrying gloves, fans
- longer gloves become solution for short sleeves
- designed for a purpose (all look basically the same)
- basically a marketing ploy and way to show wealth and status
- walking dress, evening dress, carriage dress, morning dress
- differences are in material of the dress
Late 1830s - 1850s (Crinoline Period/Antebellum Period in Southern U.S.)
- silhouette shifts to very low shoulders and wider skirts
- tight lacing of corset becomes very fashionable
- 15” waist desired
- sometimes worn at night
- sometimes lower ribs removed
- shift to bottom heavy
- smaller hair
- tighter bonnets
- natural waistline
- sloped shoulders
- tight sleeves
- either tight all the way or tighter at the top and full at the bottom (either poofy or open)
- hem widths increased
- lots of horizontal treatment in skirts and hems to emphasize width
- Crinoline - cage underskirt formed out of hoops to hold fullness of skirts out
- multiple layers of petticoats also used
- the used of crinoline versus petticoats often dictated by personal wealth and weather
- bloomers became popular
- hairstyle
- a la chinoise - pulled tight to the back with sausage curls by temples
- smaller hair and bonnets
Men’s Fashion
c1820s-1830
- not as distinct in purpose
- top hat
- cravat
- trousers or pantaloons
- very tight
- shorter for evening-wear
- oc
- great coat (overcoat)
- still hourglass shape - with sloped shoulders
- wore corsets and padding
- gathering in shoulders
- frock coat - coat with a full, often gored, skirt and there generally is a seam at the waist
- stirrups on pants worn under foot often over shoe used to hold pants down and tight
- larger hairstyles with sideburns to increase size of head
- spats (or gaiters) worn
- gloves
- facial hair varies but sideburns most popular
- cape and double-breasted frock coats
- paletot a short greatcoat with a small flat collar
- stove pipe hat - tall slim hat
- waisted hat -
- garrick coat a boxy, large greatcoat with one or more collars over the shoulders, coat with shoulder cape, named for David Garrick
- Inverness Cape - a cloak with one or more caped collars over the shoulders
1830 - 1860
- silhouette loses fullness in shoulder and hip
- more pattern in clothing (especially plaid and stripe)
- sack coat - strictly informal, no structure, forerunner of modern suit coat
- boater/skimmer - flattop, flat brimmed straw hat
1830s American linen
c.1830 American cotton, silk
c1830 American linen
1830-50 Spainish silk
1820s American cotton
c.1845 British silk
c.1844 American cotton
1855-58 American or European silk
1855 American linen
1850s French silk, linen
1850 British linen
1845-50 American silk
1845-46 European silk
1830-50 Spainish silk
early 19th century British wool, linen
early 19th century American or European silk
c.1828 American or European
c.1820 French raffia, silk
Bibliography
Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1967. Print.
Courtais, Georgine De. Women's Headdress and Hairstyles in England from AD 600 to the Present Day. London: B.T. Batsford, 1986.
Kangas-Preston, Karen. "Romanticism Clothing". Period Styles and Resources. Room 235, Auditorium. 8 October 2014.
Lester, Katherine Morris., and Bess Viola. Oerke. An Illustrated History of Those Frills and Furbelows of Fashion Which Have Come to Be
Known As: Accessories of Dress. Peoria, IL: Manual Arts, 1940.
"The Metropolitan Museum of Art - Home." Home. N.p., n.d. Web. 7 Nov. 2014.
Stokstad, Marilyn. Art History. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2008. Print.
Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Theatre Arts, 1970.
Wilcox, R T. The Mode in Costume. New York: C. Scribner's Sons, 1958.
1830s American or European straw
1840-50 American linen
1830s British silk
1840-59 American or European silk
1840s British silk
1830-49 European silk