Clothing

- shift into much more conservative dress

- clothing that associated with an event

     - designed for a purpose

- first sewing machines readily available for public purchase

     - invented by Elais Howe

     - could do the work of 10 individual stitchers

     - not extensively used until after the Civil War

 

Womens Fashion

1820s&1830s

- shape and structure conflicted with idyllic art 

- hour glass shape

     - structured and frilly skirt

          - lots of detail at the hem

     - widening of the shoulders

     - waistline at natural waste

     - balanced figure 

     - skirts are gored - panels of fabric that create the shape (truncated triangles)

     - leg of mutton sleeves - full to elbow then tightes to the wrist

     - imbecile or idiot sleeves - full to wrist

          - named for early straight jackets

     - marie-sleeve - full to the wrist but tied at intervals

     - horizontal lines

     - giant hats and bonnets with flowers, fruit, feathers etc.

          - bonnets have 

     - lower/unnaturally sloped shoulder

     - exposed feet

          - elongated foot (no definition of left/right)

          - ballet-slipper-esque 

     - corsets reintroduced

     - sometimes have butt/pillow pad to add small bump to back

     - women carrying gloves, fans

          - longer gloves become solution for short sleeves

     - designed for a purpose (all look basically the same)

          - basically a marketing ploy and way to show wealth and status

          - walking dress, evening dress, carriage dress, morning dress

          - differences are in material of the dress

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Late 1830s - 1850s (Crinoline Period/Antebellum Period in Southern U.S.)

- silhouette shifts to very low shoulders and wider skirts

- tight lacing of corset becomes very fashionable

     - 15” waist desired

     - sometimes worn at night

     - sometimes lower ribs removed

- shift to bottom heavy

     - smaller hair

     - tighter bonnets 

     - natural waistline

     - sloped shoulders

     - tight sleeves

          - either tight all the way or tighter at the top and full at the bottom (either poofy or open)

     - hem widths increased

     - lots of horizontal treatment in skirts and hems to emphasize width

     - Crinoline - cage underskirt formed out of hoops to hold fullness of skirts out

     - multiple layers of petticoats also used

     - the used of crinoline versus petticoats often dictated by personal wealth and weather

     - bloomers became popular

- hairstyle

     - a la chinoise - pulled tight to the back with sausage curls by temples

     - smaller hair and bonnets

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Men’s Fashion

c1820s-1830

- not as distinct in purpose 

- top hat

- cravat

- trousers or pantaloons

     - very tight 

     - shorter for evening-wear

     - oc

- great coat (overcoat)

- still hourglass shape - with sloped shoulders

     - wore corsets and padding

- gathering in shoulders

- frock coat - coat with a full, often gored, skirt and there generally is a seam at the waist

- stirrups on pants worn under foot often over shoe used to hold pants down and tight

- larger hairstyles with sideburns to increase size of head

- spats (or gaiters) worn

- gloves 

- facial hair varies but sideburns most popular

- cape and double-breasted frock coats

- paletot a short greatcoat with a small flat collar

- stove pipe hat - tall slim hat

- waisted hat - 

- garrick coat a boxy, large greatcoat with one or more collars over the shoulders, coat with shoulder cape, named for David Garrick

- Inverness Cape - a cloak with one or more caped collars over the shoulders

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1830 - 1860

- silhouette loses fullness in shoulder and hip

- more pattern in clothing (especially plaid and stripe)

- sack coat - strictly informal, no structure, forerunner of modern suit coat

- boater/skimmer - flattop, flat brimmed straw hat